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This post was last edited by sunjl1981 on 2013-1-6 at 23:28. How to conduct a leak test on the chlorine system when starting up a new installation? I seek advice from those with experience. # , , &
Fill the system with nitrogen gas, and test for leaks at each seal using soapy water; Or directly flush with chlorine gas, and use an ammonium chloride solution for leak testing. The former is difficult to observe but relatively safe, while the latter makes it easier to identify leakage points, but poses environmental and safety issues.
First, a small amount of chlorine is introduced into the system, followed by pressure increase using instrument air, and leak testing is carried out with ammonia water. This is how we used to commission our equipment in our company.
It is generally carried out following these steps: I. Preparation work: 1. Verify that all equipment in the drying system is in place, that valves and other piping components are properly installed, and that all elements that are not related to the pressure testing and leak detection systems have been isolated; 2. Install blind flanges on all areas that are prone to unauthorized opening (such as positive and negative pressure water seals, drip meters, etc.), and ensure that the chlorine drying system is in a sealed state (the main pipeline for chlorine supply to the electrolyzer is equipped with a water seal) ; 3. The pressure gauge for pressure measurement is ready (to measure system pressure) ; 4. Prepare enough buckets, dishwashing liquid, brushes, and cotton balls ; 5. Prepare enough ammonia solution. II. Compressed air pressure testing and leak detection: 1. Fill the chlorine drying system with compressed air to around 10 kPa (depending on actual conditions; generally 5–15 kPa). Close the inlet of the chlorine compressor (the chlorine compression unit has a gas seal) ; 2. Mix dish soap and water in the appropriate proportion (usually such that bubbles form easily), and use a brush to apply this solution to all areas prone to leakage, such as valves, flanges, and welds, to check for the formation of bubbles; record all locations where leakage occurs ; 3. Pin leakage; then proceed with “2”. Pin leakage; then proceed with “2”... in an infinite loop ; 4. Fill with compressed air and maintain the pressure; observe whether the pressure drops slowly to determine if there are any significant leakage points. 5. The pressure in the chlorine compression system must remain above 3 kgf (the exact value depends on actual conditions); for the specific steps for pressure testing and leak detection, refer to “2, 3”. III. Leak testing with mild chlorine: 1. Fill the chlorine drying system with a small amount of chlorine ; 2. Dip cotton yarn ends in ammonia solution and apply them to various valves, flanges, welds, and other areas where leakage may occur; check for any white smoke, and record all locations of leakage ; 3. Pin leakage; then proceed with “2”. Pin leakage; then proceed with “2”... it’s an infinite loop. IV. Pressure testing and leak detection of the intercooler water system: 1. For leak detection, refer to the compressed air section of the chlorine drying system ; 2. Pressure testing: Compressed air is injected according to the operating pressure of each section (reference: 0.25, 0.25, 0.3, and 0.37 for sections 1 to 4 respectively); the pressure should remain stable within two hours. The above are merely personal opinions. This post was last edited by nnza on 2008-3-6 08:26.]
First, use nitrogen and soapy water to detect leaks. Once no obvious leak points are found, switch to low-concentration chlorine (apply chlorine first and then use nitrogen to increase pressure), along with ammonia, to find the leaks