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Natural plant and animal dyes

2008-03-13View Original

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Dear experts: Hello! I am a student majoring in chemical engineering, and I am in urgent need of some materials related to natural plant and animal dyes; however, I cannot find them for the time being. I would appreciate your advice! ! !
Reply #22008-04-09
Here is some information on the current status and development of natural dyes: As human awareness of environmental protection grows and there is an increasing emphasis on health, it has become an essential requirement to develop natural dyes. The article discusses the current development status of natural dyes, the problems associated with their use, and potential solutions. It also focuses on the latest advancements in natural dyes in terms of their sources, extraction methods, dyeing techniques, and applications. It also offered an optimistic assessment of the application prospects of natural dyes. : Natural dyes ; Current situation ; Progress ; Prospects 1 Introduction The use of natural dyes and pigments for coloring has a long history in China. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the production of natural dyes and the techniques for coloring had reached a high level in China; these dyes were not only used domestically but also exported in large quantities. After synthetic dyes were invented in the mid-19th century and introduced to China in 1902, their advantages in terms of color shade and color fastness led to synthetic dyes gradually replacing natural dyes in plant dyeing. However, in recent years, as environmental awareness has increased, the pollution problems caused by synthetic dyes during their production and use have attracted more and more attention. Amid the global wave of the green revolution, natural dyes have once again come to be valued. According to the definition provided by the British Dye and Colouring Association, natural dyes are those obtained from plants, animals, or mineral resources, with little or no chemical processing. Natural dyes can be classified into plant dyes, animal dyes, and mineral dyes based on their source. Plant dyes include madder, lithospermum, logwood, indigo, safflower, pomegranate, gardenia, tea, etc ; Animal dyes include cochineal (purple) gum, carmine worm, and others ; Mineral dyes include various inorganic metal salts and metal oxides. Based on their chemical composition, they can be divided into 7 categories: carotenoids, anthraquinones, naphthoquinones, xanthones, curcuminoids, indigos, and chlorophylls. 2 Current Development Status at Home and Abroad: Natural dyes possess good environmental compatibility as well as medicinal and health benefits, which has attracted the attention of many institutions engaged in dye research and application. Abroad, countries such as Japan and India **are conducting research on natural dye coloring. Japan has established a dedicated \"Herb Dyeing\" research institute to develop natural dyes using modern scientific and technological methods. The Japanese Research Institute for Sericicultural Entomology, in collaboration with silk trading companies, discovered microorganisms containing purple pigments and used them for dyeing. Japanese technicians have also developed Euphorbia plant dyes using biotechnology. Nihon Kōritsu Company has mass-produced plant dyes in three colors: brown, green, and blue, which are used in combination to create other shades. Yamato Dyeing Company introduced \"Kusayuki dyeing,\" while Kei Dyeing Company introduced \"indigo printing.\" Japan has various brands of textiles dyed with natural dyes, such as \"Nishijin weave,\" \"Kyoto yuzen,\" and \"Oshima silk.\" These textiles made using plant-based dyes are used as materials for shirts and pajamas, or for household items like bed sheets and pillowcases. Indian researchers have also done extensive work in the field of natural dyes; they have developed dyes made from ash tree bark and balsam plant, and have conducted research on dyeing yarns with apricot leaves, nylon with Babool bark, and wool with tea leaves. Our country is also actively exploring the development of natural dyes; researchers from institutions such as the Dalian Institute of Chemical Physics of the Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, and Soochow University are engaged in research on dyeing with natural dyes. As early as 1989, Xingtai Weaving and Dyeing Factory in Hebei Province utilized the yellow-brown soil from the surrounding mountains to dye corduroy, based on local historical traditions. This \"soil-dyed corduroy\" became brighter in color with each wash, and was very popular when exported to Japan. The China Textile Science Research Institute has developed natural yellow (IR-Y) and natural green (TR-G) for dyeing cotton and silk. The “Tongniu” series of children’s clothing launched at the 19th Beijing Knitted Goods Autumn Exhibition is dyed with natural plant dyes. Jiangsu Sanmao Group has developed a high-count, environmentally friendly premium fabric made from plant dyes, named Tian Sulì; this product passed provincial-level evaluation in November 2000. This product meets the requirements for high-count, lightweight, and functionally diverse fine-woven woolen fabrics both domestically and internationally, as well as the demands for environmentally friendly natural fabrics that are currently promoted on a global scale. 3 Problems of Natural Dyes and Their Solutions Although natural dyes have broad prospects for development, it is not realistic to commercialize them and use them to completely replace synthetic dyes at present, as there are many problems associated with their use. 3.1 Solving the problem of dye supply difficulties (1) Natural dyes are mostly derived from animals and plants, which makes it difficult to carry out standardized production. Taking plant dyes as an example, even for the same plant, differences in origin, climate conditions, and harvesting time can affect the composition and color of the pigments. And this inevitably leads to poor repeatability in dyeing. (2) Natural dyes are difficult to produce in large quantities. Due to the low pigment content in plants and animals, to obtain sufficient dye, it is necessary to harvest or cut down large numbers of plants, or hunt animals. This will cause damage to the ecological environment, going against the original intention of using natural dyes for coloring in order to benefit the ecosystem and promote environmental protection. (3) Many natural dyes are also derived from herbal resources, possessing high medicinal and economic value; therefore, it is not economical to use them in large quantities for dye extraction. The amount of dye used is much lower. Therefore, it is worth studying varieties of natural dyes with excellent performance, determining their structures, and then investigating their synthesis methods in order to gradually achieve large-scale industrial production, thereby replacing the cultivation and extraction of natural dyes as well as synthetic dyes with safety concerns. 3.2 Limitations affecting application performance: Natural dyes have very low affinity for textile fibers, which results in poor color fastness. Even with the use of various mordants, it is still difficult to meet the required standards, especially regarding light fastness and wash fastness. Traditional natural dye coloring methods also have issues such as low color intensity and long dyeing times. Furthermore, most natural dyes require a mordant during dyeing, and traditional mordants often contain heavy metal ions, many of which are listed as prohibited in eco-textiles. To this end, dyeing workers in our country conducted dyeing experiments on ramie fibers using rare earth-citrate complexes as mordants for natural dyes. Rare earth ions can complex with dye ions that act as both central ions and ligands. Furthermore, it also has an effect similar to that of electrolytes, exhibiting dye-promoting properties. After treatment, the surface of cellulose fibers contains pores of varying sizes, allowing rare earth ions to penetrate into the amorphous regions of the fibers as well as the edges of their crystalline regions. There, they form complex compounds with dye molecules and cellulose molecules, thereby enhancing the color fastness. The formation of this polycomplex system enables the dye to resist color changes caused by fluctuations in the solution’s pH value. 4 Advances in the research of natural dyes 4.1 New sources of natural dyes It is generally believed that natural dyes originate from plants, animals, and minerals, with plant-based dyes being the most common. However, it has now been discovered that pigments produced by microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi, and molds can also serve as sources of natural dyes. British researchers have pointed out that large fungi such as Palmate Polypore and Hairy Fibroballus can be used as natural dyes for coloring. The Japanese Research Institute for Sericicultural Entomology, in collaboration with silk trading companies, conducted research and discovered microorganisms that can produce blue-violet pigments, which were then used for dyeing. Mold pigments can also be used for coloring. Researchers in our country have tried using red yeast rice pigment to dye silk, achieving a beautiful dark red color. It has been determined that these microorganisms are all non-pathogenic. Therefore, this pigment is safe. 4.2 New methods for extracting and processing natural dyes. Most natural dyes are plant-based dyes, with their pigments found in flowers, fruits, skins, stems, leaves, and roots. How to extract these pigments is the first issue that needs to be addressed when utilizing natural dyes. Most plant pigments are water-soluble, so plant dyes are generally extracted directly with water. After crushing the pigmented parts of the plant, they are soaked in water for a certain period of time, and then heated to a boil for 20–30 minutes; the resulting solution is the dye. However, the dyes obtained in this way have large particle sizes, which affects the color fastness. To improve the efficiency of pigment extraction, some researchers have used ethanol instead of water as a solvent. After crushing the plant dye, it is placed in a sealed container and 95% ethanol is poured in. After soaking for 24 hours, the solution is drained, and then the dye is soaked in the same ethanol for another 6 hours; this process is repeated twice. Finally, after mixing all the solutions and filtering them, it can be used as a dye solution. One of these solutions is to use biotechnological methods to cultivate plants. Today, various plants such as lithospermum and rubia have been artificially cultivated using biotechnological methods. Since these biological cultivation techniques can **accelerate** cell growth, the production of natural dyes can no longer rely on plants found in nature, and yields are significantly increased as a result. Secondly, developing natural dye analogs is also highly valuable. The structure of this dye is exactly identical to that of a certain natural dye; it is an equivalent substance. It is produced through chemical synthesis, boasts high purity and stable performance, uses abundant raw materials, does not compete with crops for land, and can be manufactured on a large scale. As long as it contains no harmful impurities such as heavy metals, its safety is not an issue, and its cost is also lower than that of natural extraction methods. It is particularly suitable for those dyes that are difficult to dissolve in water. Current research indicates that treating the dye bath with ultrasound can improve the dyeing results. The principle is as follows: by utilizing the cavitation phenomenon that occurs during ultrasonic dispersion, pressures of several thousand atmospheres are generated around the microbubbles in the liquid, causing the dye to depolymerize and thereby producing dye particles of a fine size, which improves the dyeing effect. 4.3 Advances in dyeing methods: Traditional dyeing methods involve applying the extracted dye solution directly to the fabric for dyeing. However, some natural dyes have low solubility in water, and several applications are often required to achieve a desired level of coloring. Tests have shown that using a dispersant with these types of dyes yields very good results. Anionic or non-ionic surfactants are used to disperse the dye particles in the dye bath, allowing the bath to form a more stable dispersion system; this also increases the chance of contact between the fabric and the dye, thereby accelerating the dyeing process. The lower the water solubility of the dye, the more pronounced the coloring effect when a dispersant is used. 4.4 New developments in application areas: Since the advent of synthetic dyes, natural dyes have gradually faded from use in fabric dyeing. By the time synthetic fibers appeared, natural dyes were rarely used for dyeing fabrics; therefore, the practice of using natural dyes was limited to dyeing natural fibers such as cotton, linen, silk, and wool. In recent years, as interest in natural dyes has grown, people have begun to try using them to dye synthetic fibers. 4.4.1 Dyeing polyester fibers with natural dyes: The pigment structures of natural dyes such as rubia, lithospermum, and rhubarb all contain anthraquinones or naphthoquinones, which are very similar in structure to those of disperse dyes. They have a very low molecular weight and are hydrophobic. Dyeing experiments were conducted on polyester fibers using these dyes. Thermodynamic studies showed that these natural dyes have a high affinity for polyester fibers, and their adsorption saturation values are also high, indicating that a large amount of dye is adsorbed onto the polyester fibers. Their adsorption isotherms conform to the Nernst isotherms for disperse dyes dyeing polyester, indicating that the mechanism by which these natural dyes dye polyester is similar to that of disperse dyes. 4.4.2 Dyeing polyacrylonitrile fibers with natural dyes: Thermodynamic studies show that berberine, contained in the natural dye Phellodendron, can be used to dye acrylonitrile fibers. Its coloring mechanism conforms to the NGMuir adsorption isotherm. This indicates that positively charged dyes can form ionic bonds with negatively charged fibers, allowing the dyes to adhere to the fibers. 4.4.3 Dyeing acrylic fibers with natural dyes Tests have shown that using Chavlikodi dyes to dye acrylic fabrics yields yellow-brown and dark orange colors. Stannous chloride and alum exhibit high dye uptake when used as mordants. When copper sulfate is used, the lightfastness is very good. 5 Future Prospects Natural dyes are particularly suitable for developing high-value green products, and the prospects for fabrics colored with natural dyes are very promising. The superior properties of natural dyes are particularly evident in the following aspects. 5.1 Health-oriented underwear products: Nowadays, green textiles that promote comfort and health for the human body have become an essential part of household health-related spending. For most undergarments, pajamas, and other close-fitting garments, the environmental and ecological requirements for dyeing and finishing processes are even higher. Most natural dyes have medicinal properties; some can resist bacteria and reduce inflammation, while others can promote blood circulation and disperse stasis. Therefore, textiles dyed with natural dyes will become a new force in health-oriented underwear. 5.2 Home textile products: As people’s living standards improve, home textile products will shift from being economical and practical to being functional and environmentally friendly. Home textiles such as bed sheets, pillowcases, and bath towels dyed with natural dyes are bound to be favored by people due to their compliance with ecological and environmental standards as well as their health benefits. 6 Conclusion Plant and animal dyes among natural dyes are extracted from organisms; they are environmentally friendly, biodegradable, non-toxic, and harmless, showing no allergenic or carcinogenic effects on the skin. It has good biodegradability and environmental compatibility. Although synthetic dyes are bright and vivid, the elegance and sophistication of natural dyes are beyond comparison to those of synthetic dyes. In addition to their coloring function, natural dyes also have various other functions such as those in medicine and fragrances. Most natural dyes are derived from traditional Chinese medicines; during the dyeing process, their medicinal and aromatic components are absorbed by the fabric along with the pigments, endowing the dyed fabric with special medicinal and health-promoting properties for the human body. Driven by the current trend toward preferring green consumer products, it is bound to have broader prospects for development. However, at present, it is not realistic to commercialize natural dyes as a complete replacement for synthetic dyes. The low coloring strength and long dyeing time of natural dyes also hinder their development; therefore, it is necessary to improve traditional dyeing methods. Due to the long-term neglect of natural dyes, very little is known about many once well-known natural dye resources; it has therefore become urgent to reassess and develop new natural dyes. Furthermore, microbial natural dyes can be developed, or synthetic dyes with the same chemical structure as natural dyes can be created. Natural dyes, in line with the growing demand for nature, will occupy an important place in textile applications. Reposted from China Pigment Supplier Network www.ylb2b.com
Reply #32008-04-09
Natural dye printing on real silk: Before the invention of synthetic dyes in 1856, all coloring and printing of real silk was done using natural pigments derived from animals, plants, and minerals. These natural dyes could produce a wide range of vibrant colors on real silk, and their color fastness was not inferior to that of the synthetic dyes used today. There are many types of natural dyes derived from plants; in ancient China, indigo, madder, safflower, lithospermum, green grass, and gardenia were commonly used. There are few animal-derived dyes, mainly shellac violet, carmine, etc. Mineral pigments include cinnabar, tin powder, lead white, prussian blue, azurite, ochre, and others. In addition to vat dyeing, ancient dyeing methods included painting, tie-dyeing, wax printing, and relief and stencil printing. However, the extraction, color matching of natural dyes, and their application in fabric dyeing are not as convenient as those of synthetic dyes, and it is difficult to prepare natural dyes into stable forms that can be used at any time. As a result, natural dyes were quickly replaced by synthetic dyes. Germany, 1996: A ban was imposed on certain azo dyes, as scientists discovered that these dyes could cause defects in development, cancer, and allergies in humans. This has drawn attention to green, environmentally friendly dyes. Natural dyes, especially those of plant origin, are green products that are very safe for the human body. Moreover, many of the plants from which these dyes can be extracted are also herbs with medicinal properties, allowing fabrics to acquire certain health-promoting and therapeutic functions while being dyed. Many plant dyes possess a distinct fragrance, which is a feature that sets them apart from synthetic dyes. Many consumers who prefer textiles made with natural dyes are attracted by this unique scent. Therefore, in recent years there has been a global trend toward textiles using natural dyes and natural fibers. Textiles made from natural fibers such as silk and cotton, dyed with natural dyes, have become fashionable products with high added value, and their market prospects are promising. The natural dye printing methods commonly used in modern times are mainly dipping and screen printing, with plant-based dyes being the most widely used natural dyes. Plant-based dyes are extracted from the roots, leaves, bark, stems, or fruits of plants. Based on their chemical composition, they can be classified into carotenoids, curcuminoids, anthraquinones, indigos, chlorophylls, and tannins (also known as tanins). Carotenoids are widely found in plant leaves, tubers, and fruits; they include lutein and xanthophyll, and they tend to oxidize and fade under acidic conditions. Curcumin is found in the rhizomes of the Curcuma plants and medicinal turmeric, and it is not tolerant to light. Anthraquinone dyes are found in plant roots, and many important natural red dyes belong to this class of chemical compounds. Anthraquinone dyes have good lightfastness and tend to form metal compounds. Indigo dye is mainly used for printing and dyeing cotton fabrics; for example, the traditional technique of blue-printed cloth popular in the market involves dyeing with indigo and then using a \"grout\" for scraping and decolorization. Chlorophyll is a green dye extracted from plant leaves and stems; it has a bright color but is prone to oxidation. Tannin-based plant dyes generally contain hydrolyzable tannins, which can be hydrolyzed to produce substances such as digallic acid; these substances can complex with various metal ions to enable the dyeing of fibers. For example, the traditional silk product known as shanli silk is dyed black using iron complexes of tannins. The extraction of plant dyes generally relies on plant species abundant in local areas, hence it has significant regional limitations. India is rich in plant resources; therefore, research on plant dyes is quite active there, and their development and use have started early and are widespread. The main plant dyes commonly used in the printing and dyeing of genuine silk in India are as follows: jatropha flowers, mimosa pudica flowers, roots of Indian berberis species, leaves of euphorbia species, leaves of rubiaceae shrubs, and walnut bark. Jatropha is a tropical evergreen tree or large shrub that grows to a height of 10–15 feet; it belongs to the Euphorbiaceae family. It has thin, branched stems, oval or luteiform leaves, and red flowers that grow in clusters and are about an inch wide; these flowers bloom throughout the year, making Jatropha an easy source for obtaining red dye. Rubiaceae shrubs are common garden plants with dense clusters of copper-green leaves, and they serve as a rich source of dyes. Indian berberis is a shrub that grows 6–12 feet tall, primarily found in the Himalayan region and northern India. Its growth is most vigorous in May and June, and the highest amount of pigment can be obtained from its roots. The walnut tree is a large, deciduous, monoecious tree with hairy, tender branches; it is a common species in the Himalayan region and the hills of Assam. Oil and alcohol extractants from green walnut shells are used in India as hair dyes, with alum serving as a mordant. Walnut bark yields a brownish-yellow color on wool treated with a mordant, while it produces a rust-red color on cotton fibers treated with a mordant. Bougainvillea includes about 50 species of evergreen shrubs and herbs; the common varieties of bougainvillea are wild, drought-resistant plants that can grow to a height of 1.5–3.0 meters. The cluster leaves are dark green, while the flowers are pink and yellow when they first bloom, turning red or orange afterward. Its flowers can be used to dye a range of colors from pure white to light purple. Euphorbia is a tall shrub that can grow to 2–10 meters in height. This deciduous shrub typically develops leaves in winter, and its large oval leaves come in various colors such as deep red, bright red, white, or yellow, making it a source of rich natural pigments. Most natural plant dyes are mordant dyes; they have a limited range of colors available and poor color fastness. However, when plant dyes are used in combination with mordants (mainly metal salts), a wide range of bright colors can be produced. The same natural plant dye can produce different colors on fabrics when used with different mordants. Common mordants include potassium aluminum sulfate (alum), copper sulfate, and ferrous sulfate. The mordanting methods generally include pre-mordanting, simultaneous mordanting, or post-mordanting. In the pre-mordanting method, degummed silk is placed in a mordant solution and boiled for 30 minutes before dyeing. The synchronous mordanting method involves adding the required amount of mordant to the dye solution and then dyeing the genuine silk. The post-mordanting method involves first dyeing the genuine silk, and then treating it in a mordant solution for 30 minutes. Different dyes sometimes require different mordanting methods to achieve the best coloring results; even when using the same dye, changing the mordant will necessitate adjusting the mordanting method accordingly. True silk was dyed with jatropha flower dye using three different mordants, all of which showed better dyeing results when the pre-mordanting method was employed. For leaf dyes from Rubiaceae shrubs, the simultaneous mordanting method is preferred. The garcia flower dye is suitable for the post-mordanting method. For berberine root dyes, ferrous sulfate mordanting is suitable for the pre-mordanting method, while alum mordanting is suitable for the simultaneous mordanting method, and copper sulfate mordanting is suitable for the post-mordanting method. True silk is dyed with walnut bark dye; the pre-mordanting method is suitable for alum mordanting, while copper sulfate and ferrous sulfate mordants are suitable for simultaneous mordanting. The method for extracting plant dyes generally involves boiling the plant materials in an acid or alkaline solution at 100°C; it is also possible to boil them in water without the addition of acids or alkalis, after which the fabric is directly immersed in the dye solution for coloring. True silk needs to be degummed first. Sodium carbonate is generally used as the base, while hydrochloric acid is used as the acid, at a concentration not exceeding 1%. The results of the staining tests showed that dyes derived from jatropha flowers, bignonia flowers, leaves of rubiaceae shrubs, and euphorbia leaves are best extracted using acid solutions, whereas dyes from walnut bark and berberis roots are best extracted using alkaline solutions. For all these dyes, except for those derived from Indian berberis roots, a pH level of 1% is optimal; whereas for dyes made from berberis roots, an alkaline solution of 0.8 g/100 ml should be used. A cooking time of 90 minutes is optimal for the flowers of Croton lechleri, the leaves of Euphorbia species, and the bark of walnut trees, whereas a cooking time of 60 minutes is suitable for the flowers of Jatropha species, the leaves of Rubiaceae shrubs, and the roots of Berberis species as dyes. The concentration of the plant dye ingredients added to the boiling solution varies depending on the ingredient; the concentrations for Buxus chinensis flowers, Berberis roots, Jatropha flowers, and leaves of Rubiaceae shrubs are 3, 4, 6, and 7 g/100 ml of water respectively, while the concentrations for Euphorbia leaves and walnut bark should be 5 g/100 ml of water. The dyeing time of real silk in the aforementioned dye solution is preferably 30 minutes for dyes derived from Jatropha flowers and leaves of Rubiaceae shrubs, 45 minutes for dyes derived from Berberis roots and walnut bark, 60 minutes for dyes derived from Euphorbia leaves, and 75 minutes for dyes derived from Bougainvillea flowers. The results of the staining tests showed that among the three mordants mentioned, alum was used at a relatively high concentration; this concentration varied depending on the dye, being 5%, 10%, and 15% respectively. For dyes made from jatropha flowers, leaves of rubiaceae shrubs, and berberis roots, 5% alum concentration is preferred ; A ratio of 10% is optimal for garcia flower and walnut bark dyes ; 15% is the optimal concentration for euphorbia leaf dye. For the application concentration of copper sulfate as a mordant, 1%, 2%, and 3% are suitable for dyes derived from Jatropha flowers and Bignonia flowers ; For other dyes, 2, 3, 4% is optimal. For all these dyes, except for those derived from berberis roots, a 2% concentration of copper sulfate yields good staining results, while for the dyes obtained from berberis roots, a 3% concentration gives excellent results. The optimal application concentration of ferrous sulfate as a mordant is 1% for dyes derived from jatropha flowers and leaves of Rubiaceae shrubs, 2% for dyes from berberis roots and walnut bark, 3% for dyes from Euphorbia leaves, and 4% for dyes from Bignonia flowers. The important economic crops mulberry and tea in southern China can also be used as plant dyes; in particular, the tea plants commonly grown in the south, whose old leaves constitute a rich source of plant dyes. Moreover, tea is rich in tea polyphenols, which possess strong antibacterial and health-promoting properties; using them for dyeing silk and wool can help develop high-quality antibacterial and health-promoting textiles. Add 2g of tea leaves to 200ml of water, heat it to 85°C, and keep it at that temperature for 20 minutes to obtain a dye solution for fabric dyeing. Tea leaf dyes can be treated with various mordants to yield various dyeing colors with good color fastness in all aspects; in particular, the lightfastness and K/S value of dyes mordanted with ferrous sulfate are higher. Currently, there is extensive research and application in natural dye coloring, whereas research and application in natural dye printing are limited. In fact, natural plant dyes can also be used for printing on real silk. The use of natural dyes for printing on real silk has a long history, but applying modern screen printing techniques with natural dyes to print on real silk is a new technology that still needs further development and dissemination. According to research by Indian scientists, printing inks prepared using dragon glue along with four plant dyes—berberis roots, walnut bark, leaves of rubiaceae shrubs, and jatropha flowers—can be successfully applied to screen printing on genuine silk. The dye solution, which has been extracted from plant materials and filtered, needs to be heated and concentrated; generally, 100 ml of the dye solution is reduced to 5 ml. The resulting concentrated dye can be used directly to prepare color pastes. The mordants are also the same three dyeing mordants mentioned above, with two methods employed: pre-mordening and simultaneous mordening. When using synchronous mordanting, the mordant is added directly to the dye paste in the amounts specified in the following formula. The formula for 100ml of printed dye paste includes: 4.0ml of dye concentrate, 5.0g of dragon glue, 1.0ml of color fixative, and a mordant (based on the weight of the paste): 10% alum, or 1.2% copper sulfate, or 1.5% ferrous sulfate. The printed greige fabric is degummed and washed, then ironed while still semi-wet after being partially dried. Printed silk is subjected to various color fastness tests after drying, steaming, and washing. The printing test results showed that the print fastness grades of all four dyes on silk were from fair to good, and the results were identical using the two different mordanting methods. However, the wash fastness of silk printed by the synchronous mordanting method is better than that of silk printed by pre-mordanting. Among the four dyes, those derived from berberis roots and leaves of madder family shrubs exhibited better wash fastness. However, in terms of sweatfastness, the printing quality of dyes made from berberis roots and jatropha flowers is better. The wet and dry rubbing color fastness of synchronously mordanted printed silk is also superior to that of pre-mordanted printed silk. Therefore, in general, the synchronous mordanting method is preferable for printing silk fabrics with plant dyes. Printed silks using different dyes have their own advantages and disadvantages in terms of color fastness for various tests; therefore, different plant-based dyes should be chosen based on the requirements of the final finished product. In short, the use of natural dyes, especially plant-based dyes, in the printing and dyeing of genuine silk is still in the experimental stage. Our country is rich in plant dye resources, yet their utilization rate is very low; this issue should attract the attention of the silk printing and dyeing industry in order to keep up with international fashion trends. Plant dyes are particularly suitable for printing and dyeing high-quality silk in small batches; they not only increase the added value of silk products but also attract more consumers who advocate healthy and green lifestyles to purchase silk products.

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