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Not a single crayfish can make it out of Beijing, Shanghai, or Guangzhou alive. Perhaps this summer, as a fan and a homebody, my biggest complaint is that when watching games, there are only peanuts and soybeans available, but no crayfish. No other food spreads its flavor across the taste buds on summer nights in first-tier cities like crayfish, and it sparks discussion every summer: from rumors about the handling of their carcasses to hot money in the capital market. https://ss2.baidu.com/6ONYsjip0QIZ8tyhnq/it/u=3671743019,1718128101&fm=173&app=25&f=JPEG?w=550&h=367&s=D786C8AE6A23008A56A7AEF50300D019 It evolved from a neglected rural food item to the king of late-night snacks in major cities. Its path of rise has been almost in sync with the rapid development of cities and capital in China over the past decade. What you’re eating isn’t crayfish; it’s China’s gilded age. The duty editor who wrote the article about eating crayfish / Tulip tree: Eating crayfish is a way of showing off one’s wealth. The scientific name for crayfish is quite long—it’s Procambarus clarkii. In Chinese, it’s called “Ke Shi Yuan Ao Xia”. However, once it enters China, its names might be Spicy Small Crayfish, Garlic-Scented Small Crayfish, and Thirteen-Flavor Small Crayfish. There are countless ways to prepare crayfish, but these three flavors remain the most popular among everyone. https://ss1.baidu.com/6ONXsjip0QIZ8tyhnq/it/u=3700339384,3836855821&fm=173&app=25&f=JPEG?w=590&h=886&s=18A27C33C9CF40CA40F42DEE00009022 ▲Data source: Meituan Dianping. Nowadays, the price of crayfish is getting higher and higher; previously, 100 yuan was enough to buy one portion, but now only one portion can be purchased with that amount of money. Statistics show that last August, crayfish were priced at almost 60 yuan per kilogram. What’s even more worrying is that the price of crayfish is still rising this year. ▲Monthly wholesale price trends for crayfish in 2016 and 2017 / Aquaculture Network: A species that can survive even in sewage – why is it so expensive? Because crayfish are so popular, wild ones can no longer meet our demand; the crayfish we eat these days are mostly farmed. In 2017, over 10 million mu of land in China were used for raising crayfish, with 1.1297 million tons of crayfish being raised there (figures for Hong Kong, Macao, and Taiwan are not included). Even though the amount is so large, everyone eats so much. Currently, the total demand for crayfish in China is around 1.9 million tons, with a shortfall of nearly 1 million tons. https://ss2.baidu.com/6ONYsjip0QIZ8tyhnq/it/u=963027308,4163347571&fm=173&app=25&f=JPEG?w=640&h=374&s=2F10DBA21802ACC65E4960B40300B002 From 2014 to 2016, the production of crayfish increased by 30.36%, but consumption increased even more, by 32.47%. In 2016, the production volume of crayfish was 899,100 tons; more than 3,000 tons were imported, and over 20,000 tons were exported. Ultimately, 879,300 tons were consumed, meaning that almost all of it was used up. How can the price not go up? If there are any unexpected situations, the price will be even higher. Last July, areas such as Hunan and Hubei experienced continuous heavy rainfall, which caused many crayfish to be washed away... On top of that, the prices of shrimp larvae, land, and labor have all increased, so crayfish that used to cost around 20 yuan per pound now cost over 40 yuan per pound. The larger the city, the greater the preference for crayfish. So here’s the question: given that crayfish are so expensive, who is eating them? Statistical data shows that those who consume a large amount of crayfish are mainly found in large and medium-sized cities, concentrated in North China, East China, and Central China. In cities such as Beijing, Wuhan, Shanghai, Nanjing, Changsha, Hangzhou, and Suzhou, over 10,000 tons of crayfish are consumed each year in each of these cities. An even more interesting statistic shows that in July 2017, the cities with the highest number of crayfish restaurants were Shanghai, Guangzhou, and Beijing, with 3,907, 3,268, and 1,844 restaurants respectively. How astonishing are these numbers? It should be noted that as of June 2017, McDonald’s had slightly over 2,500 restaurants in mainland China. https://ss2.baidu.com/6ONYsjip0QIZ8tyhnq/it/u=110530007,3482480600&fm=173&app=25&f=JPG?w=577&h=263&s=1AA87C239FD951CA1EDCA1DB000090B1 ▲ “Report on the Development of China’s Crayfish Industry (2018)”/Aquaculture Network, and so on. Aren’t these the cities of Beijing, Shanghai, and Guangzhou that we mention every day? The main target market for crayfish is actually first-tier cities; that’s really amazing. Looking at Baidu’s search volume in June this year, the first-tier cities of Beijing, Shenzhen, Guangzhou, and Shanghai also ranked in the top four. It’s not clear whether it was the more than 2,000 new restaurants that opened in Guangzhou last year that made people in Guangdong think that crayfish taste better than those from Fujian; their interest in crayfish continues to grow, and Guangdong’s Baidu search rankings far surpass those of other regions. https://ss2.baidu.com/6ONYsjip0QIZ8tyhnq/it/u=3245441690,4090332502&fm=173&app=25&f=JPEG?w=640&h=293&s=48211D720572472016F160D7000080B1 ▲Map of the geographical distribution of crayfish/Baidu Index. It must be said that the ability to establish a foothold in first-tier cities has also contributed to the continuous rise in the price of crayfish. In 2016, the average spending per person at crayfish restaurants reached 84.4 yuan. The most expensive city was Shanghai, with an average expenditure of 90.1 yuan per person, followed by Beijing with 89.9 yuan. However, it seems that people think the high quality and good environment make it worth spending some money on. Stores with an average spending per customer of over 85 yuan generally receive ratings of four stars or higher. Thus, crayfish went from street stalls to becoming a staple of the middle class. Statistical data shows that the areas in Beijing and Shanghai where the most crayfish are sold are actually the locations of their CBDs – Chaoyang District in Beijing and Pudong New Area in Shanghai. Of course, this is also related to the fact that there are already many restaurants in busy areas. But the question is: if crayfish were not considered a proper dish just a few years ago, how did it manage to make its way into the CBD and become popular among the middle class? How crayfish became a favorite among the middle class. Crayfish used to be an ingredient that went unnoticed, and there’s a reason for that. First, it doesn’t have much meat, so it’s definitely not the best choice if you want to get full ； Second, both breeding and fishing efficiencies are not high, and it is also difficult to eat. As a restaurant dish, it is expensive, and it’s too costly as an appetizer; it’s unclear whether it should be served with wine or wine with it. Therefore, those who often eat crayfish in restaurants generally have no worries about food and shelter, and even have some extra money. Of course, those die-hard fans who would rather eat dirt next month than give up on crayfish are exceptions. ▲Source: Aquaculture Network. Thus, crayfish have targeted young people in first-tier cities who enjoy good incomes, like spicy food, and are active in social and nightlife activities. Around 2013, Sichuan cuisine, known for its spicy flavors, had already become the most popular cuisine style. By 2017, there were still many people who loved spicy tastes, and this was one of the factors that contributed to the popularity of crayfish. Today, people born in the 1980s and 1990s have become the main force in food and beverage consumption, so it is crucial to win over their taste for food. For young people, eating spicy food can indeed add a bit of excitement to their busy and monotonous lives. https://ss1.baidu.com/6ONXsjip0QIZ8tyhnq/it/u=1204710865,2394247058&fm=173&app=25&f=JPEG?w=640&h=295&s=5094EC321F63480B08CD29D002005031 ▲China Cuisine Association: 2017 Food Consumption Report – The success of crayfish in reaching first-tier markets is also thanks to the night market economy. Most people who eat crayfish these days are young adults aged 20 to 39, and they are also the main group that eats late-night snacks. As early as the summer of 2017, reports indicated that based on the number of orders for late-night meals placed through Ele.me, the top 10 cities with the most active late-night economy were Shanghai, Hangzhou, Shenzhen, Wenzhou, Guangzhou, Beijing, Wuhan, Fuzhou, Xiamen, and Nanjing – all of which are economically dynamic cities. And crayfish, as the king of late-night snacks, naturally made its way into these cities as well. Typically, food lovers place their orders at 9 p.m. According to data from an app, during the late-night dining period in June 2016, food lovers across the country consumed a total of 1,500 tons of crayfish. https://ss2.baidu.com/6ONYsjip0QIZ8tyhnq/it/u=3119430662,2327579527&fm=173&app=25&f=JPEG?w=640&h=312&s=3BE6F816366474AADE75BAFA0300903D Additionally, crayfish have another inherent advantage: they need to be peeled. It might have seemed quite troublesome before, but now it has become the strongest reason for people to put down their phones. In today’s world where people prefer straightforward personalities, crayfish – which are down-to-earth and help people stop using their phones – are undoubtedly an ideal social food. Data shows that 80% of crayfish are eaten on-site. The influx of capital has propelled crayfish to the forefront, making them extremely popular and generating significant commercial value. In 2017, the total economic value generated by crayfish farming reached 268.5 billion yuan, an increase of 83.15% compared to the previous year; of this amount, the catering industry accounted for around 200 billion yuan. It is precisely because the main consumers of crayfish are young people in first-tier cities, who possess stable purchasing power and sufficient demand, that a large amount of capital is invested in the crayfish industry. The Hot Life and Ma Xiao Wai Dai brands under the Spicy Temptation portfolio received an A-round financing of tens of millions of yuan in 2016, and another B-round financing of 140 million yuan in August 2017. Duck necks also have to bow to the crayfish faction. Last year, Zhou Hei Ya also entered the crayfish market by launching the Ju Yi Xia brand. It is said that for takeout crayfish services like Zhou Hei Ya, the net profit margin can reach 80%. https://ss2.baidu.com/6ONYsjip0QIZ8tyhnq/it/u=1983255788,1129778541&fm=173&app=25&f=JPEG?w=640&h=795&s=95A74CB6C633BFEF679E93B90300F009 Crayfish have also attracted many e-commerce platforms; Tmall, JD.com, and NetEase are all selling crayfish now. In 2016, Tmall also organized an online crayfish festival using the crayfish from Qianjiang and Xuyi as its theme. The influx of capital and the hosting of the World Cup have further fueled the already booming popularity of crayfish. These days, as long as it’s food that isn’t related to crayfish, one feels too embarrassed to even say hello to people when going out. Crab pizza, crab pasta, crab burgers, crab rice bowls – all these variations of crab dishes appear before us one after another. https://ss2.baidu.com/6ONYsjip0QIZ8tyhnq/it/u=3641238740,3411241300&fm=173&app=25&f=JPEG?w=600&h=422&s=42E09B54EA564ADE902C61AD0300E0C2 For those who enjoy eating crayfish, the good news is that more and more people are joining them in this habit; the bad news, however, is that the price of crayfish will continue to rise. This is because there is a particularly prominent sentence in the \"Report on the Development of China’s Crayfish Industry\": \"Due to limitations in the supply of crayfish fry, the amount available is low and prices are high; in addition, costs related to breeding inputs, land, and labor have increased.\" The rise in the ‘floor’ of costs, the expansion of the market, and increased consumer demand will drive crayfish prices to remain high. ”Goodbye, crayfish; I’m going to find my own fluffy companion. ▼Small survey