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Identification of 20# carbon steel and 304 stainless steel

2009-02-03View Original

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I have a question: apart from analyzing the components, are there any simple, quick, and low-cost methods to determine the authenticity of the 20# carbon steel and 304 stainless steel that have been purchased? Thank you
Reply #22009-02-03
Strong thermal oxidation or melting can be distinguished more easily
Reply #32009-02-04
I’m sorry; what I asked was not about the difference between 20# carbon steel and 304 stainless steel, but rather how to determine it individually Thanks
Reply #42009-02-04
For 20# steel, it’s generally not necessary to verify its authenticity. It’s better to analyze 304 steel; for defective 304 steel, it may look like stainless steel, and no issues can be detected even after acid etching for a day or two, but problems may arise after a few months of use
Reply #52009-02-04
304 is an austenitic stainless steel that is non-magnetic; it can be identified as 304 material by testing whether a magnet can attract it. Simple and feasible.
Reply #62009-02-04
Under Ruo Nuo’s hypothesis: 1. It’s indeed difficult to judge the appearance of 20# products, but if you have doubts, you can check whether the surface of the material is smooth and even (after rust removal). Legitimate manufacturers generally produce products with good appearance, while those from street vendors usually have obvious defects on their inner and outer surfaces. 2. For 304 stainless steel, test it with a magnet; the attraction should be very weak or non-existent, while defective products exhibit strong magnetic attraction. At the same time, defective products have many pitting on their surface.
Reply #72009-02-04
94. The simplest way is to use a small magnet to attract it, hehe!
Reply #82009-02-04
The simplest method right now is what everyone mentioned above: use magnets. Stainless steel does not have magnetism. There is another method as well – use a grinder to test it; stainless steel produces weak sparks, while 20-grade steel produces bright and numerous sparks. You can give it a try. I took another look – it’s used to determine their authenticity, not to distinguish between them. I think there’s no need for the 20-grade version. For 304 steel, a test strip can be used to determine the amount of Ni present; it’s very simple to use and cost-effective. Last edited by gzk1986 on 2009-2-4 17:31.]
Reply #92009-02-04
The quality of 304 cannot be determined by the strength of its magnetism, and it seems that none of the simple and quick analysis methods are very reliable. It’s better to check on a professional website. The current 304 grade is rather chaotic; one really needs to be careful when choosing materials. (For reference)
Reply #102009-02-04
I fully agree with the method using a grinding wheel suggested by the person on floor 9! It’s indeed a great approach!
Reply #112009-02-05
Based on my practical experience, many pieces of 20# carbon steel are not actually 20#; their carbon content is much higher, yet it’s impossible to tell from the appearance. A difference in material can lead to many unforeseen consequences. The grinding wheel method should be used to distinguish between 20# carbon steel and 304 stainless steel; moreover, the magnet method cannot be used to differentiate between 201 and 301 (stainless iron). Friend on the 9th floor, I’m not sure what test strip you’re referring to for identifying 304 Could you explain it in detail? I am extremely grateful. Thank you all once again.
Reply #122009-02-09
I also think magnets are better – simple and clear
Reply #132009-02-11
To be precise, apart from analyzing the components, there is no better way; otherwise, why would anyone produce those monitoring instruments that cost tens of thousands of dollars each?

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