Why does the fuse keep blowing?
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I’ve encountered such a problem at work: originally, a fuse of 0.5A was used for the solenoid valve, but after it burned out once, it kept burning out again whenever it was used; therefore, a fuse of around 1A had to be used instead. I’m not sure what’s causing this – there must be a short circuit somewhere in the system circuit. Where could it be, and how can I find it? Thank you to those who can offer some guidance.
Could it be that the coil resistance in the solenoid has decreased? Although it can still function properly, its lifespan has been **reduced**. It is recommended to replace the electromagnetic coil and observe for a while. Check whether the operating voltage is within the normal operating range of the solenoid valve.
Replacing the large fuse isn’t a solution; it’s still necessary to find the root of the problem. I agree with what was said above; the focus should be on checking the resistance and insulation of the solenoid coil, as well as monitoring the circuit current.
It is likely caused by partial damage to the enameled wire inside the solenoid coil, which leads to a decrease in the internal resistance of the wire, an increase in power consumption, and an increase in the operating current. You can use a multimeter to measure the internal resistance of coils of the same specification in order to make a simple assessment.
In addition, it is also necessary to check the insulation of the wiring
If the above solutions do not work, check whether there is a pressure difference across the solenoid valve in terms of the manufacturing process. A large pressure difference can also cause difficulties in starting the solenoid valve and increase the current.
Thank you to everyone who provided answers above. We used a multimeter to measure the resistance of the solenoid coil, and it was within normal limits. It seems that the main thing to check now is the insulation of the wiring; there should be no issues with the manufacturing process.
We have encountered similar situations before; water got in when the device was turned on and off. Switching to a 4A fuse (instead of the 1A fuse used before) allowed it to function, but after a certain number of operations the fuse burned out again. The approach suggested by the people upstairs is correct~ The building owner should take more measurements to find out what the voltage between one terminal and ground is, etc.… The cause can definitely be identified!
It is necessary to focus on checking the insulation of the wires.
After checking the coil and insulation, try to check for any grounding issues.
Is there any damage to the outer layer of the cable? Is the circuit grounded? Is the fuse capacity specified in the original design too low? Try replacing the solenoid valve
First, use the replacement method to check if there is a problem with the solenoid valve; other than that, the only thing to examine is the cable, specifically its insulation.
1. This is caused by a decrease in the coil resistance of the solenoid, an increase in power consumption, and an rise in operating current. It is recommended to replace the solenoid coil. 2. Check whether the operating voltage of the solenoid valve is within the normal operating range.
You’d better check if the load has increased
It’s simple: the load is too high; replacing the solenoid valve will surely solve the problem.
Fuses are generally installed at the positive terminal; if there is grounding at that terminal, the fuse will blow frequently. Focus on checking the line insulation and grounding; for a quick inspection, disconnect the terminals and then directly measure the grounding resistance. This post was last edited by ywdqlf on 2009-4-7 22:00]
Personally, I think that if there is a short circuit, replacing the fuse with one of 1A or 2A ratings will still result in it blowing, which should rule out the possibility of a short circuit. Instead, it would be necessary to check whether the increase in circuit current is the cause.
First, check what type of solenoid valve you are using and what its power rating is. If it’s an ASCO low-power solenoid valve, then there must be some accidental short circuit somewhere in the wiring. If the power of the solenoid valve is originally only a dozen watts, then the original 0.5A fuse is too small.
It’s nothing. We used 0.5 before as well, and then switched to 1; the instantaneous current in the coil increased significantly