Thread Content
When the gas pressure in the smoke duct suction box drops suddenly, identify the cause and determine how to address it.
It seems like there are few requirements for asking questions! At the very least, it’s necessary to clarify the phenomena as well as the pressures from various other factors in order to facilitate analysis
I don’t think it’s possible for both to drop at the same time. Is the question posed by the original poster incorrect? If that were the case, there must be an issue with human operation or the controller.
I’m sorry if I wasn’t clear enough; just yesterday, while I was checking the computer readings, the suction force in the flue on the Anxious side suddenly dropped from over 200 to 35 Pa, and there was also air leakage in the basement. What if the pressure suddenly drops? Thank you all
The conditions provided by the poster are indeed a bit insufficient. Is it only for a single row, or is this the case for the entire furnace? What’s the temperature at the fire viewing hole? I’d better add some more conditions before asking the other sailors. There are many factors at play, and it’s difficult to determine what the reason is at the moment
Is it automatically adjusted?
Reasons for the sudden drop in flue draft: It may be caused by instrument failure or equipment abnormalities. Judgment method: If the gauge is faulty, it indicates that the actual suction force is normal, and there is no danger. It’s just that the gauge readings or indications are incorrect. First, check whether the opening degree of the flue control flap or the oxygen level is normal. If there are no measurement data available, it is possible to inspect on-site whether the opening degree of the flue control flap is normal. If it is indeed caused by a device failure, it means the flue is indeed too small, posing a high risk. The chimney is likely to emit large amounts of black smoke, and an explosion could occur. We once encountered a situation where the automatic flue flap disconnected from the linkage of the oil regulator, causing the flap to close completely and almost leading to an accident. Our preventive measures: Within the operating range of the flue damper (from 0% to 100%), every 10% is considered a separate segment; holes are made in the gauge indicating the opening degree, and holes are also created at the corresponding indicator arrows on the damper. When it is necessary to secure the damper in place, pins can be inserted through these holes to prevent the damper from losing control. Normally, according to the automatically adjusted operating range of the flap, a fixing pin is inserted one position below the minimum opening position; this serves as a barrier to prevent the flap from closing completely in case the linkage comes loose. As for how to handle it, it can be found in the regulations. If it is a problem with the gauge, it’s relatively simple to fix; usually, one just needs to switch the gauge from automatic to manual control and adjust the flap opening to its normal position. Once everything is working properly, automatic control can be reactivated. As for how to handle equipment failures, it should be specified in the procedures.
I’m not really sure how to describe it – it just drops suddenly; there’s air leakage in the basement, and the replica keeps shaking. We use gas mixed with coal for heating; these days they have restricted the amount of coke gas that can be used, so the temperature isn’t very high.
Sudden drop? OP, please check if the weather has suddenly become hot in your area recently When the weather is too hot, the suction power of the chimney is reduced, which can lead to insufficient suction in the flue and even blockages in it It’s unlikely to happen