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The method of wrapping with tape, and its effectiveness – are there any better solutions? We all sealed the leaks by welding the flanges shut!
It doesn’t have much effect; we sometimes make mistakes as well. There’s no good solution at the moment, and I hope fellow forum users can come up with some good suggestions to share with everyone
The key is to ensure that the heat-shrinking process is done properly. Our range hood also had this problem before; we resolved it by making adjustments to the heat sealing.
For leaks at the flange at the chimney inlet, it is essential to carry out thermal tightening – do it several times. We have not experienced any leaks so far
We also tightened it several times; the temperature increase was within normal limits. But it seems that the flange surface is no longer flat. I didn’t dare to mention this to my supervisor, haha
Products made of expanded PTFE strip gaskets, 20 mm wide and 7 mm thick, can definitely solve these flue problems
What gaskets do you use? It is best to use 316L metal wound gaskets with inner and outer rings. Check whether the inlet pipeline of your exhaust fan is aligned concentrically with the fan itself, whether all the spring supports are functioning properly, and what the degree of deviation is. If none of these are an issue, then the heat sealing wasn’t done properly; such low errors on the padding generally don’t occur. It is recommended to apply some lubricant (butter) to the surface when putting on the pad
This is our heat sealing, 350 550 ; Two heat-sealing points
We switched to wavy gasket pads to thicken the graphite and ensure no leaks. That’s what we did.
It is best to use GH132 for bolts. Generally, austenitic stainless steel bolts have a low coefficient of thermal expansion and poor rigidity; the more they are tightened, the longer they become, making it difficult to achieve an adequate level of tightness