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The issue of plugging leaks under pressure

2011-03-05View Original

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The unit is equipped with a heat tracing line (DN40, pressure of 10 kg). There is a valve on a branch connected to this line; there is a sand hole at the weld between the valve and this line. Currently, it’s not possible to stop the heat tracing line, nor can the weld be repaired, and it’s also impossible to secure it with clamps. Later, I used a hammer to tap on it slowly until the leak stopped. These past two days I tried to weld it back together, but as soon as I started welding, the leak started again. In the end, I had no choice but to use a hammer once more to stop the leak. What do you think? Should we just leave it as it is since there’s no leak now, or should we reinforce it by welding it properly?
Reply #22011-03-05
It’s quite suitable for gambling purposes, and there isn’t much stress involved. You can fabricate a small tube, add a threaded plug to one end of it, insert the tube at the point of leakage to allow the fluid to flow out through it, and then weld the tube in place at that leakage point. In this way, all the leaking fluid will flow out through the small tube. After that, you can simply use the plug to seal off the tube, and that’s it. If the medium cannot be welded, it is also possible to use RUFENG to bond the welding area properly; once it is secure, the plug can then be installed.
Reply #32011-03-06
A nut can be used to block it, or a clamp can be made to seal the leak under pressure.
Reply #42011-03-06
The welding nut is placed on the sand hole; full welding is not required. For acid-resistant seals, PTFE is used inside the nut, while for gas-resistant seals, lead plates are used. Then the screw is inserted and tightened. This is the simplest method for plugging leaks under pressure. Is there anyone skilled at fixing leaks here? We often have to seal leaks here. Let’s make friends and discuss things together.
Reply #52011-03-06
You can twist wire to the leak point; once the weather warms up, stopping work at noon will allow the leak to be completely fixed!
Reply #62011-03-10
If there are sand holes, welding them may not necessarily strengthen the structure; it’s better to seal the leaking area with nuts or plugs
Reply #72011-03-10
Have you seen someone repair a bicycle tire? After gently tapping with a hammer until there are no more leaks, cover the sand holes with the pre-prepared patch; then welding or gluing can be used to completely eliminate the leaks.
Reply #82011-03-14
If the leak is not severe, a short pipe can be made with a valve at one end; this pipe can be welded to the location of the leak. During welding, the valve should be opened to allow air to escape, and it should be closed after welding is complete.
Reply #92011-03-18
The methods for the 2nd and 4th floors should be able to solve your problem. If it’s difficult to work in that location, you can wrap the T-shaped part with a 50mm pipe and then weld it; you can address the issue completely once the vehicle is parked
Reply #102011-03-18
Learn* it a bit. Learn* it a bit. Learn* it a bit. Learn* it a bit. Learn* it a bit. Learn* it a bit. Learn* it a bit. Learn* it a bit. Learn* it a bit.
Reply #112011-03-20
The leak can be sealed using a cold welder along with a reinforcement strip. 13782829353

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