What to do if the enamel on an enamel-lined reaction kettle is damaged?

It can be repaired further; there are specialized materials available in many varieties, which can be found online

It can be repaired; there is a special glue available – you can look into it. I’ve heard of it.

This post was last edited by nj1952 on 2017-7-8 at 18:34. (1) Methods for repairing pinhole defects (see illustration): Grinding (use an electric grinder to remove the enamel layer from the damaged area and expose the metal substrate) → Drilling → Tapping → Fabrication of corrosion-resistant components (tantalum screws, PTFE gaskets) → Installation. (2) Repair method for pit defects: Corrosion-resistant putty with strong adhesion to both the enamel layer and the metal substrate (such as Metallite, enamel repair compound) can be used to fill and level the defects; once dried, it is ready.

Where did you learn these methods? You didn’t come up with them on your own, did you? The area around the defect is covered with enamel; your methods involve drilling and welding. Whenever you drill and weld, the existing intact enamel layer in that area gets damaged

It depends on the size of the damaged area; if it’s small, a local repair will suffice. If it’s a large area, the entire enamel needs to be removed and then repainted with enamel. As you said, each unit in that case must be scrapped; enamel repair is actually quite common. There are specialized manufacturers that do this. Additionally, enamel reaction kettles are particularly sensitive to alternating temperature differences; large temperature swings can cause the enamel to peel off. I hope this helps you.

The two repair methods I introduced are common techniques for fixing porcelain exposure defects in enamel-lined equipment, and both have been used in actual work (the structure of the tantalum pins is shown in Figure 1). The four methods for textures are taken from \"Chapter 6: Maintenance and Application of Lined Glass Vessels\" in the \"Manual for Design and Selection of Petrochemical Equipment – Lined Glass Vessels\". Compared to tantalum pins, they have new features (for example, how do you repair them when tantalum is not available?) What if the defect area is large? How to deal with that? ), and the repair approach is clear with a logical structure; therefore, the texture is provided for you to choose based on actual conditions. As for the concern about \"more drilling and welding,\" of course, corresponding auxiliary measures are needed during implementation, such as: (1) the drilling structure. Suitable for wounds with significant damage to the glass-lined layer ； (2) Welding. Spot welding with a low current and low power level should be used (resulting in less heat input and a narrower heat-affected zone). Before welding, water should first be filled inside the tank and the jacket.

The method on the fourth floor should work; we’ve all used it… One option is to use enamel repair paste, and there are also PTFE nails. The repair paste gives only average results, and its usage is similar to that of Guoli Hao. :)

This post was last edited by jmdc on 2017-7-9 at 16:01. How long does it take for a repair compound to cure, dry, and become ready for use? Can it be exposed to acidic substances such as acetic acid at 100°C? Have you used a repair compound imported from the UK called Belzona 1391? We bought this product but don’t know how to use it; the instructions seem to be in French. Also, repairs made in this way don’t last long before the issue arises again, requiring further repairs and disrupting production

Polymer repair materials can be repaired. What medium, temperature, and other operating conditions?

Alternating hot and cold temperatures can cause cracking; if the glass lining is severely damaged, it needs to be sent back to the factory for repair. For small issues, I know, use glass lining repair compound. . But I haven’t actually used it myself