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The basement keeps triggering the alarm, and it’s difficult to locate the source of the leak. The alarm is very sensitive and keeps sounding non-stop. Does anyone have any good solutions?
First, check the four-way small cover; some gas fitters deliberately don’t tighten it in order to make it easier to remove later. Additionally, an oil replenishing machine with automatic molybdenum disulfide supplementation is installed on the exchange cock to ensure no air leakage during cock replacement.
What was said upstairs is correct; the main leakage points are at the four-way valves, the orifice plates, the pressure control valves, the switching valves, and the orifice plate housings. After dealing with the obvious and severe leakage points, a torch test can be conducted to check for any remaining leaks
Go and observe things at the grassroots level; there are things in reality that aren’t mentioned in books.
It mainly depends on what type of gas you use. At the interface of the downflow nozzle for coke oven gas, cracks can easily occur over time, leading to gas leaks. Additionally, if the switching valve isn’t sealed properly, it needs to be removed and its sealing groove filled with grease. Blast furnace gas is generally tested using a torch test at the gas flue or waste gas tray, and it can be detected quite easily this way. Over time, one can usually tell which area it is just by the smell. It’s just that over time, there’s a bit of leakage