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In some of the pumps on site, the distance between the coupling backup wheels is very small, which makes it difficult to install gauge frames and dial indicators. I was wondering how people manage to align them in such situations.
Ruler and feeler gauge method. . . . . . . . . . . .
Press the back of the saw blade against it, and determine the coaxiality based on the light transmission.
Make the positioning pin after one alignment; no further alignment is needed next time. A laser alignment tool can also be used, as well as a small dial indicator for alignment; feeler gauges can be employed to measure and calculate the fit, and the light-transmission method using a right-angled ruler can be applied
The traditional method for saw blades – simple and low in cost
For pumps with low rotation speed, use a blade caliper or blade gauge along with the light-transmission method to adjust the levelness as well as the alignment of the left and right openings
For small pumps, the coupling connection can be checked with the naked eye or using a saw blade; as long as the gap in the coupling is properly controlled, there are no major issues. If one wants perfection, a flexible connection can be used. This is the most perfect connection I’ve seen – it reduces vibration and makes leveling straightforward. It’s sufficient for small pumps, but for larger pumps, a conventional connection is still recommended :)
Press the back of the saw blade against it, and determine the coaxiality based on the light transmission.
Measure 4 radial positions for the blade + backlight, and check the axis end parallelism with a feeler gauge.
A watch stand can be made at home using chains, in combination with a lever micrometer.
We also use a saw blade; it’s sufficient to just find it roughly. After all, the requirements aren’t high