The temperature of the electric heater won’t rise
Thread Content
We were using an imported oil heater of our own, with a power rating of 1500W and operating on 110V; the oil temperature could be raised to 79 degrees. Now we have switched to a domestic explosion-proof oil heater, also with 1500W and 110V, but the oil temperature can only reach around 48 degrees. The amount and quality of the oil remain the same. We would like to ask the experts here – what could be the reasons for this difference? Thank you!
Is the length of the heater extending into the fuel tank the same?； Is the measured power the same?
The explosion-proof version is 5 cm longer, ensuring complete immersion in oil; the actual power difference is less than 100 W
Install 2 units to spread. . . . Hehehe. . . It’s so uncomfortable not saying anything.
Is the nickel-chromium content ratio of these domestic electric heating elements incorrect?
Is that claim still around? It sounds kind of reasonable!
What’s the logic in that? The heating element keeps generating heat; the material composition is incorrect – what does that have to do with the heat transferred by the material? Just like when you use an iron pot to heat water or oil, compared to using an aluminum pot, the temperature of the water or oil doesn’t really depend that much on the material of the pot, right? :lol
No, it’s probably because the amount of natural gas used is different
Since the materials are different, might it be better to use a domestic heater for a longer period of time? It’s best to use a 380V domestic heater; the poster can give it a try
Intermediate physics tells us that heat = U^2/R, and R is not the same. The heating wires, Ni80Cr20 and Ni90Cr10, must be different, right? I’m just guessing; wait for the experts to prove it.
There are several possibilities: 1. Check whether there is a temperature controller on the heater itself (with a setting that is too low); it serves to prevent the heating element from overheating, and it’s something in the form of a knob – this is one possibility； 2. Some heaters are of the air-jacket type, meaning that there is a jacket surrounding the heater; it does not come into direct contact with the oil, resulting in low heat transfer efficiency. The oil temperature does not reach the set temperature, but once the heating element reaches its protection temperature, heating stops. Heating resumes only when the temperature drops below this protection level. This requires the implementation of a logical mechanism: as long as the oil temperature has not reached the set value and the heating element does not overheat, the heating control remains active and continues to supply heat. As a result, the heater heats up at times and stops heating at other times, until the oil temperature meets the required level. This phenomenon mainly occurs during cold winters. 3. The imported oil heater is usually of the oil bath type; a temperature sensor feeds the data to the control system for temperature regulation. In addition, it has built-in on-site temperature protection. Due to its direct contact with the oil, it boasts high heat transfer efficiency, so the heating element does not overheat. The on-site temperature protection serves to prevent dry burning. The downside is that it is difficult to replace after a failure.