【Haichuan Food Talk】Did you know? Pi County doubanjiang was actually invented by Hu Jianren
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Pi County soybean paste is a Chinese geographical indication product that enjoys protection under such designations; soybean paste produced outside of Pi County cannot be called Pi County soybean paste. Is the doubanjiang produced in Pixian authentic? When it comes to authenticity, one must talk about its historical origins and the continuity of its production ； Pi County soybean paste is not necessarily authentic just because it is produced in Pi County; only three companies that belong to the same lineage can be considered genuine producers of this product. This lineage refers to the Chen family, the founders of Pixian broad bean paste; it all traces back to the migration from Huguang to Sichuan. During the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, due to continuous wars, the population in Sichuan was sparse. As part of the large-scale migration from Huguang to Sichuan, Chen Yijian from Yongding, Tingzhou, Fujian, moved to Pi County in Sichuan along with his relatives. On the journey to Sichuan, the broad beans that the family carried for food went moldy due to days of rain; not wanting to discard them, they were dried on the field ridges and then pickled with fresh chili peppers to be eaten as a side dish. Unexpectedly, it had a prominent umami flavor and was pleasantly spicy and salty; after being offered to neighbors and friends for tasting, they all praised it highly. Thus, it was given the beautiful name “Lazizi Douban,” which marked the birth of Pi County Doubanjiang. In the family’s legacy, it was Chen Yixian, a descendant of the Chen family, who truly developed the \"spicy broad bean paste\". In 1803 (the eighth year of the Jiaqing era), Chen Yixian opened a soybean paste factory named “Shuntian Hall” on West Street in the county town of Pi County. Adopting the traditional model of a store in the front and workshops in the back, he devoted himself to researching and improving the manufacturing process for spicy soybeans. Through the unremitting efforts of two generations, Chen Yixian and Chen Huichun, the chili bean paste produced by the \"Shuntian\" soy sauce factory gradually took shape and began to thrive. By 1853, the third year of the Xianfeng era, Chen Shouxin, a descendant of Chen Huichun, the owner of the \"Shuntian\" soy sauce factory, established a new soy sauce factory on South Street in Pi County town. Since Chen Shouxin’s courtesy name was “Yi Qian”, he took the character “Yi” from the beginning of his own pseudonym ； It also coincided with the Xianfeng era of the Qing dynasty, and the character “Feng” was used to mark that time ； It also took the character for “harmony” that represents heaven, earth, humans, and harmony ； It was named the “Yifenghe” soy sauce factory, and it operated in conjunction with Chen’s previous soy sauce factory, “Shuntianhao”, to work together towards development. Building on the traditional methods used by his ancestors for making soy sauce, Chen Xianshou conducted in-depth research and drew inspiration from the fermentation techniques used for fermented tofu. He improved the brewing process by adding ash and broad bean paste to the mixture used in fermentation. The soy sauce produced in this way was extremely spicy and flavorful, and thus the true Pi County broad bean sauce was born. Therefore, Chen Xianshou and the soybean paste factory he founded, “Yifenghe”, are also regarded as the authentic originators of Pi County soybean paste.
After more than 300 years of continuous exploration and repeated experimentation, Pi County broad bean paste has ultimately developed a unique production technique and process. Firstly, high-quality Erjingtiao peppers are selected, with those from Pi County and the surrounding areas such as Shuangliu and Renshou, as well as regions in eastern Sichuan like Zhongjiang, Santai, and Yanting being the main sources. The picking period is from July each year to 15 days after the beginning of autumn; the peppers are required to have a bright red color, plump flesh, no signs of mold, and no impurities. After removing the stem from the chilies, cut them into sections about 1.2 inches long. Mix these sections with salt, place them in a barrel, and expose them to the sun; stir them twice a day. Next is the quality of the hyacinth beans; second-tier dried hyacinth beans produced locally in Pixian County are primarily used, as well as those from eastern Sichuan and Yunnan Province. The water used comes from underground sources in Pixian County. After being soaked in cold water to swell, the beans are then peeled using graphite rollers. Next, the soybeans are ground into flour and mixed with glutinous rice flour to create koji cakes; these are then combined with refined flour and stirred evenly with peeled broad bean pods before being placed in flat baskets and sent to a koji room for natural fermentation ； The fermented broad beans are placed in jars and mixed with chili peppers. Thereafter, it is turned over, exposed to sunlight, and dried every morning; after about a year, the red beans are ripe, while the black beans take more than a year and a half to mature. They feature a reddish-brown color, a oily texture, a sauce-like aroma, and a fresh, spicy taste. Although the good water quality in Pixian ensures the high quality of its Doubanjiang, the humid air provides an ideal environment for the microorganisms involved in its production. Exposure to sunlight during the day and dew at night allows this sauce to absorb the vital energies from nature and the light of the sun and moon. It takes three years to produce this remarkable product with its shiny red color, rich soy flavor, and deep ester aromas – a true masterpiece from Pixian. As the most representative specialty of Pi County, and indeed of Sichuan as a whole, Pi County broad bean paste embodies the regional uniqueness, distinctiveness, and originality associated with \"the soul of Sichuan cuisine\" and \"the taste origin of Pi County\" through its unique flavor profile. It represents a highlight and an important component in the development of Pi County’s local economy, and has even become a flavor beloved by people around the world – with the essence of Sichuan cuisine at its core.