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In a 6-meter single-heating type coke oven, after the exchange process, explosions were triggered along with re-ignition; this caused the paint on all the horizontal pipes to burn off. There are over 20 such areas, all located near the T-shaped pipes. The explosions were extremely loud. What is the reason for this, and how can it be resolved?
It’s not tempering; it’s blasting. Defoated air explodes together with the gas in the pipeline.
You’re right, master; it was a detonation. During charging, the horizontal pipes got burned black. How can this be fixed? The valves have been replaced and butter has been applied, and the set screws have also been tightened
Is the carbon removal air port blocked?
The newly commissioned coke ovens are all new and not clogged; the air intake volume at the carbon removal ports is substantial during reduction
. How is the “blasting” sound that is often heard during coke oven exchanges produced? “\"Blowing\" occurs as a result of the mixing, ignition, and backfire of coke oven gas and air in the brick gas channels. Generally, the “explosion” occurs about 10 to 20 seconds after the exchange. Most occur in brick gas ducts where the upward airflow changes to a downward airflow. Common causes include: (1) The set screw for installing the switch cock is too loose, resulting in air leakage. (2) Air leakage from basement horizontal and vertical pipes. (3) When replacing the orifice plate, the flange screws were not tightened after closing the inlet and outlet valves for 15–20 seconds, which allowed air to be drawn in and caused a \"blowout\". (4) The inlet and outlet valves were not opened and closed properly; the valves did not rotate enough, or although they had rotated 90°, they were not fully closed, resulting in air leakage and air entering the carbon removal port. (5) The plug core and housing have poor grinding, are corroded, or lack proper lubrication, resulting in air leakage even when fully closed. (6) Violation of the pressure system caused the graphite protective layer in the carbonization chamber to burn off, resulting in leakage of raw gas. (7) Gas leakage in the brick gas duct. Solution: ① Ensure a tight fit of the lower nozzle and its surrounding area ; ②Reduce the diameter of the coking coal branch pipe and increase the gas pressure to prevent backfire ; ③Strengthen inspections and address gas leaks in basements promptly ; ④Properly adjust the heating stop time during exchange ; ⑤The adoption of centralized lubrication technology effectively solved the problem of \"blasting\" caused by leaks resulting from a lack of oil” ; ⑥When designing the switching plug, the tee surface is appropriately reduced, while the sealing surface is increased. By adjusting the stroke of the exchange chain, the angle of the lever, and its front-back position, it is ensured that the exchange valve remains fully closed, preventing gas leakage. By properly grinding the rotating core of the exchange plug against the housing and enhancing lubrication, as well as adjusting the set screw of the exchange plug to apply the necessary spring pressure, the tightness of the exchange plug is ensured. Thoroughly inspect and address the connections between the horizontal pipes, small branch pipes, and vertical pipes in the basement, as well as the connection between the vertical pipes and the brick gas ducts, to ensure that all gas pipe connections in the basement are airtight. Strengthen the grouting or shotcreting of brick gas ducts to ensure their tightness. The pressure in the gas collection duct is increased by 20–30 Pa compared to normal operating conditions, which prevents the raw gas generated in the carbonization chamber from leaking into the combustion system. This helps to facilitate the early formation of a protective graphite layer on the furnace walls, thus preventing leaks of raw gas.
Thank you, it’s quite comprehensive. What’s the reason in my case? What should I do?
1. Check whether the valve has undergone pressure testing to ensure that it does not leak air in all three conditions; 2. Check whether the handle is in the correct position, that is, whether the rotation angle matches the opening on the plug core. The distance between the gas outlet and the carbon removal outlet of a 100 model plug is only 25 mm; when divided into left and right sides, each side has only 12.5 mm. If there is a misalignment between the core and the handle, gas leakage is likely to occur. 3. Check the pressure at the flame hole to ensure it is appropriate; a reasonable suction force in the chute should be maintained ; 4. Check the permeability of the brick gas ducts, and carry out spraying operations on those with severe roaring to reduce resistance. We have also seen cases where, after treatment with 4, the level decreased significantly
Thank you for your advice. My company’s management is currently carrying out repairs on the gas pipes using spray bricks; I hope things will improve. I’ll check the pressure at the burner holes again tomorrow and adjust the suction level. There’s constant noise in the basement, which is really scary
Coking time: 32 hours, new furnace