May I ask about steel-lined enamel reaction kettles that need to go from room temperature to 4 kilograms of steam pressure and then back to room temperature?
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I would like to ask: for an enamel-lined steel reactor, it is necessary to purge it from room temperature using 4 kilograms of steam, and after the purging process, the temperature needs to be reduced back to room temperature. What are the step-by-step procedures to follow to prevent the enamel from cracking? For example, how much steam volume should be controlled at the beginning, and how can rapid local temperature rises be avoided? The key is how to avoid sudden temperature changes?
There are no heat tracing pipes, only insulation layers
There must be relevant temperature measurement points, right? When introducing steam, dehydration is necessary; start with a low flow rate first, open the vent at the bottom of the reactor, and gradually increase the temperature – usually by 10 degrees Celsius per liter – until the normal temperature of 4 kilograms of steam is reached, around 140°C. After that, close the vent and purge the reactor. After the purging is complete, the steam valve is also closed slowly, reducing the temperature by 10 degrees at a time, with a interval of about 10 minutes between each reduction, until the normal temperature is reached.
Start it at a lower level first, and open the bottom vent of the reactor. Is it really necessary to open this bottom vent? Because the steam goes straight to the back to condense, and once the purging is complete the steam is turned off immediately; the temperature drops very slowly anyway, so there’s no need to turn off the steam gradually. The goal is to cool down quickly anyway
Cooling down can be done quickly, so why does warming up have to be done slowly? It’s actually the same principle; otherwise, if enamel expands and contracts too rapidly, problems will arise just the same. Since you’re not afraid of water, give it a try and see the actual results – maybe you’re right!
:L-lined glass is not as brittle as you think. . . . When using steam cooking, preheat for ten minutes first, and then adjust the steam amount according to the amount of vapor being released. The temperature at 4 kilograms is not even 115 degrees; our setup with 7 kilograms works just fine
Are you purging the inner wall of the new enamel kettle? The key is to avoid too rapid heating; it’s important that the temperature change in the enamel-lined tank not exceed 50 degrees. Steam should be introduced slowly at first to prevent any pressure buildup. With normal-pressure steam, the temperature stays around 100 degrees, and since the steam is introduced slowly, the temperature rises gradually. Pressure is increased as the temperature rises, resulting in a gradual heating process that does not cause damage to the enamel. When cooling down, reduce the pressure slowly; once it is near atmospheric pressure, the steam supply can be stopped, and then the system can be allowed to cool down naturally.
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The temperature difference between the inside and outside of the enamel kettle jacket should not exceed 80°C. It is recommended to use a heating medium in the jacket; with the kettle empty, the temperature of the jacket should be increased gradually to above 100°C. Steam should be used for purging, and no issues should arise in this process