How to scrape the packing of a reciprocating compressor?
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After applying Danhong back and forth several times, is the area that has been scraped with Danhong black or the other color? How should it be shaved to ensure roundness?
Isn’t it better to just replace it with a new one? It’s not expensive either, and after scraping, it’s difficult to ensure an appropriate gap between the packing and the stuffing box.
Not to mention scraping, even grinding is done by very few people these days. Of course, if no one does it, then it won’t be done either.
The packing gap, the sequence of radial and tangential rings; then, after installing the packing and tightening the bolts, tighten the bolts that go through the packing as well. Also, check whether the intermediate packing is damaged, and whether the nitrogen supply for the intermediate packing is functioning properly. That’s all I can think of for now.
The areas where the cinnabar powder has been applied should be scraped off; the areas without cinnabar powder, which are the contact areas, are the places where more substance is expelled, and they also need to be scraped off. Why can’t it be sealed? Why is scraping necessary? How can we determine whether scraping can solve the problem? Can I see pictures of your packing material? What is the gap between the packing material and the stuffing box? After installation, was a no-load test conducted? If so, for how long? (Sorry, I missed typing “not”.)
This post was last edited by CHANGBAISHI on 2019-8-5 08:05. Your question focuses only on one aspect of the issue and ignores the other. It is recommended to check whether the piston rod is severely worn; you might want to consider repairing it. It would be better to replace the piston rod and give it another try :) Oh, and it is advised not to attempt to repair the piston rings anymore – what you call repairing them actually constitutes artificial damage to them.
It was measured with an inner diameter micrometer; the ovality error is around 0.001–0.002. The piston rod at the dead center of the pressure-reducing ring doesn’t have a shiny surface – it’s more like a matte finish, but it’s not rough either. It’s been used in this way all along
The gasket has been under repair for a week; pressure testing is still in progress today. If it doesn’t work, I’ll take some photos for you when I install it~
Is the red lead present in those areas because it couldn’t come into contact with other substances, which is why it remains there? Is it darker because the cinnabar powder has been scraped off? The test run didn’t last long; pressure was released and the machine was stopped as a leak was detected. I haven’t really done many trial runs before either; after installation, I just gradually increased the voltage, and if there was no leakage, it would work normally.