Double-flange level gauge
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I have a question for everyone: when installing our double-flange level gauges, the lower flange, which is on the positive pressure side, has an installation hole with a diameter of DN80 and a depth of 120 mm. However, the insertion length of ABB’s flange level gauges is only 100 mm or 150 mm. If 100mm is chosen, it will result in a small recessed area that is prone to the accumulation of debris. If a 150mm size is chosen, will this cause the diaphragm of the membrane box to be in constant friction with the material, potentially leading to damage to the diaphragm? How should one choose the most suitable one?
In fact, there were few such convex double flanges in the early days; most systems worked just fine without them. Later on, convex flanges became more common due to crystallization and impurity deposition, but they should not be used when they aren’t necessary, as many people still prefer to install a shut-off valve between the double flanges and the equipment connection. With a diameter of 80mm, a device port depth of 120mm, and an insertion depth of 100mm, I think this is already quite good; the remaining 20mm of depth corresponds to a 80mm diameter, so not much can be placed there.
There are quite a few things inside those missing 20mm; previously, wire was also found there, and a diaphragm was damaged as well, resulting in leakage. So I want to buy a 150mm one to give it a try and see if it will be better.
It seems there’s a difference in understanding: the convex double flange is designed to prevent the accumulation of crystalline and sedimentary impurities, which could otherwise block the flow and affect accurate pressure measurement. It’s designed to prevent wires from getting in, so it’s even less possible to insert it deeper.
The ball is going upward – what does that have to do with the length of the bat? As the saying goes, an elephant’s trunk is over a meter long, and a hammer is also over a meter long; yet those creatures live happily. A little mouse’s hammer is as long as a grain of rice, and it still lives happily; in fact, that mouse even has 4 wives! On the basement floor of the supermarket, it has several lovers outside of marriage as well. .
Choosing 100 should not be a big problem
The purpose of having protrusions is to avoid any grooves; in this way, nothing will get stuck on the diaphragm, and small objects like wires will also not get stuck there. At most, there might be something wrapped around the diaphragm, but it should not affect the diaphragm’s ability to perform measurements
The problem isn’t serious; I just want to try using a 150mm one to see if that can reduce the occurrence of clogs
Choose the 150 model and add a flushing ring; use the thickness of the flushing ring to adjust the insertion depth to your desired level, and it also allows for emergency flushing.
Use an aggressive attacking strategy: insert a diaphragm that bends 90°, so that the diaphragm points vertically toward the bottom of the tank. It’s difficult for the diaphragm to get stuck there; it’s even harder than making that jerk suffer some real punishment. :P Think about your home’s ceiling – why doesn’t it accumulate dust or dirt over decades? And whether the insertion depth is 100 or 150, it’s still a straight insertion; in the end, it ends up looking the same. It stays sticky where it should be sticky, and it stays pasty where it should be pasty.